It’s fair to say that this was the most anticipated show from the SS17 season, the first collection for Christian Dior from Italian designer Maria Grazia Chiuri.
I woke up every morning this week surprised by all the Stories on Instagram from Paris Fashion Week (thank you 5 hour difference). When the Christian Dior show started popping up on my Instagram I was immediately wide awake, after all this was Maria Grazia Chiuri’s first show since she became creative director of the historic french house, the first woman to occupy this position. I really don’t remember who’s Instagram it was but I remember seeing someone commenting on of the dresses, how they looked so feminine and light from the front and so strong and edgy from behind. I guess that’s how I hoped Maria’s vision of Dior would be, you cannot be a woman in this world and not have a sort of Jekill & Hyde personality. Sometimes we need to use our feminine and seductive side, for ourselves or others, and other times we just need to put on our combat boots. These different approaches to life are just the result of being a women in a world dominated by men, but this is not the place to explore this subject, I don’t want to bore you with my life strategies. Anyway, these images from social media were my first contact with the collection and now I’m sitting in front o the computer with my Vogue Runway page open ready to check out the photos of the collection and one of the first things I see when I open the page is the list of previous designers from Christian Dior –“Raf Simons (2012–2015), Bill Gaytten (2011–2012), John Galliano (1996–2011), Gianfranco Ferré (1989–1996), Marc Bohan (1960–1989), Yves Saint Laurent (1957–1960), Christian Dior (1946–1957)”.
Can you imagine her accepting this job and then just realizing who she was going to succeed, it takes an amazing amount of courage to take on this job and accept the scrutiny that she’ll be receiving. Good for her! Now back to the clothes. Chiuri definitely wanted the Dior woman to wear an armor to face the world, who doesn’t need an armor these days, right? The first models wore their hair in a bun and sports inspired looks, from fencing jackets and vests to high boxing boots paired with lace dresses and logo underwear. Again, this juxtaposition of lace and tule with leather straps and biker pants represents the strength and flexibility that women have to face all the obstacles that come our way on a daily basis.
Romance was still there because let’s face it, Maria had to do it or she knew I would just throw a tantrum. She’s afraid. Romance was in the details, embroidered hearts, bees and leaves and so much transparency that really makes me feel that maybe we should all just #freethenipple.