Are you ready for a quick fix of Couture in just one post?
Here are some of my favorite show’s from FW Couture Fashion Week in Paris.
Great news, Dior has a new creative director but meanwhile the last collection from the designers Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux was presented in Paris. Business is in trouble but that didn’t intimidate the young designers that gave us a relaxed and young collection, scarce in colors and spectacle and with a RTW vibe. I love to think about normal clothes that you can actually imagine yourself wearing in daylight being constructed with the same care as a rhinestoned couture gowns.
My favorite show to watch on Couture week. You can definitely see some of the trends for the next season on this collection, small print flowers, puffed shoulders, victorian silhuettes with high collars and lace. Tule was present in a big way, as always, No one makes tulle gowns like Gianbattista Valli. My favorite look is the second one on top with the crop top with puffed shoulders juxtapositioned with some high waist pants pants.
Amazing surprise. What a great collection. I’m not the biggest fan of the “va va voom” Versace woman, though I recognise they do it like no one else can. Draping was very much present in dresses, long coats and tops. The color palette was unusual with deep reds mixed with creme and lavender, ligh blue, pink and always black. I wish I could put my hands on those oversized, satin lined trench coats.
It’s hard to tell apart Chanel collections, they mostly look the same. I tend to remember the presentation of the collections more then the clothes, and this show was no exception. A beautiful homage to the real artists behind Couture – the seamstresses. I recomend you take a look at the documentary “Dior and I” to appreciate the work they put into the clothes and how they’re essential to the production and interpretation of the designers drawings and directions.
Chanel’s backdrop for this show was a replica of the atelier where the collection comes alive. The atelier on Rue Cambon was transfered to the Grand Palais along with the people that work in it. They were asked to act as if this was just another work day, they were fitting, cutting, draping and sewing clothes while their criations were walked by models besides them. The most engaging show of the season.
Remember the iconic steps of Rome’s Trinita dei Monti where models walked in honor of the late designer Giani Versace, remember that iconic location and show? Fendi’s celebratory Couture show location, in honor of the 50th year of Karl Lagerfelds work with the house, is set to become part of history, just like the Versace show location. Fendi built a transparent runway on top of the Fontana di Trevi… I mean? The pictures of the models walking on that runway (including kendall Jenner) have a place in all fashion history books from now on. Let’s talk about the clothes. The clothes were made for modern princesses with loads of mink fur and empire waste dresses. I can imagine one of the Brontë sisters wearing these looks nowadays, they are beautiful without being trivial and they’re unconventionally lovely.
Viktor & Rolf
Wow, what a parade of technique and craftsmenship. There was no need for a big and exotic location when you create clothes like these, they’re the star of their own show. Amazing clothes aparently made with scraps of fabric, some of them from previous shows. It’s one of those shows worth going to Vogue Runway to check out the forty looks from the collection in detail.